CUT AND SEW NECKLINES by Roni Knutson

Cut and sew necklines are really useful when knitting a sweater in a pattern (fairisle, tuck, slip, lace, punchlace, double jacquard) as it avoids the shaping of the neck and all the problems that come with it for the beginner, such as starting the pattern again on the correct row on the second shoulder. Cut and sew is a bit daunting at first, but once you get used to it you will really appreciate the time saved and the ease with which you can finish a neck. To get your sweater front or back ready for this method, knit your piece as usual, doing all shoulder shapings but omitting neck shaping. Mark the centre front while knitting (if you know which row the neckline shaping would have started on - mark that line). Take work off on waste yarn. Using a template from a magazine or from your favourite T-shirt, mark your knitting with tailors chalk or basting thread. Take it to your sewing machine and with matching thread, stitch the marked neckline with a straight stitch, taking care not to stretch. Stitch again above this row of stitching approximately 1/4" away. (I don't use my serger for this as it tends to make the edge wavy and is harder to control and to see what I am doing than on my sewing machine). Cut away above stitching. If you are a little nervous about doing this the first time, stitch and cut a little higher. You can always cut lower if it's too high.

SIMPLEST NECKBAND

1.With WRONG side facing, hang the neckline on the machine by poking a tool through the knitting, below the stitching line.

2. Knit 1 row across (this can usually be done by machine but occasionally must be done by hand).

3. Bring up ribber and transfer stitches to ribber for 1 x 1 or 2 x 2 rib.

4. Hang comb and weights (Singer/Studio - bring comb up from behind knitting).

5. Knit amount of ribbing required, tightening and loosening the tension up to help neckband lay flat, e.g.,

15 rows rib - gradually tightening tension

1 turning row - at stocking stitch tension

15 rows rib - gradually loosening tension

6. Transfer stitches from ribber to main bed.

7. Cast off - loosely. Leave a fairly long end of yarn for sewing band down.

8. Catch band down - stitch for stitch. If you look closely you can see the first row below machine stitching - this completely encloses the raw edge.

FOR A MORE POLISHED NECKBAND

Add 3 more rows after 1 row in 2. above. e.g.,

4 rows - stocking stitch

15 rows rib - gradually tightening tension

1 turning row - at stocking stitch tension

15 rows rib - gradually loosening tension

4 rows - stocking stitch

Copyright©rvk Feb. 1999

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