DOUBLE MITTENS by Roni Knutson

These are very nice fitting, double mittens, that pull apart for drying. (updated with photos May 18, 2004)

Machine Made on a Studio 580 electronic but any standard machine with or without ribber can be used.

Sizes For regular ladies hand (men's size in brackets)

Yarn Originally made in Newry or Linwood by Spinrite Yarns - approximately 3 ozs of main colour (two strands used throughout) or any other 2/16 used double. Since this yarn is no longer available, 4 ply yarn will give approximately the same result. Small amounts of contrast for fairisle and small amounts of crochet cotton.

Note If you are using an electronic together with a rib transfer carriage I would advise removing the N1 cam. The pattern will automatically default to centre and it'll be one less thing you'll have to think about.

Note: If you are a beginner, wait a while before trying these.

Lining

Carriage at right - bring 60 (64) needles out to "D" position - push back EON to "A" position (out of work). E-wrap cast on across the remaining needles. Tension 7.2, knit two rows. Bring empty needles into "B" position - make sure you have 30-0-30 (32-0-32). RC000 - knit 52 (56) rows. CAR.

Thumb opening

Manually knit 2 rows of waste yarn on 12 (13) left edge needles and then place these needles in hold (D) position. Put carriage in hold (Russell Levers to I) and knit 1 row to the left on working needles. Place marker on right side of work with waste yarn and then knit 1 row back to the right. Return carriage to regular knitting (Russell Levers to II) and continue to knit across all needles. (Thanks Donna ;))

Lining continued

RC000 - knit 16 (20) rows

Cuff

Transfer every other needle to the ribber (if you do not have a ribber you can substitute mock rib). T4.2/4.2. RC000 - rib 60 rows. Transfer stitches back to the main bed. (If you are using a RT1 Rib Transfer Carriage - and you have an electronic - move margins to left and remove N1 to avoid damage.) See note above.

Mitten exterior

Tension 8.1. RC000 - knit 16 (20) rows. Repeat thumb opening directions as shown above. You now have 52 (56) rows in which to knit a pattern.

Fairisle Notes

You should start your pattern after approximately 6 or 7 rows. If you do fairisle to the very tip of your mitten it will be stiffer and will not pull in as well - so I would advise a total of 30 rows in fairisle. Note also that patterns with long floats are not as suitable. These mitts pull apart for drying and can be difficult to put together if there are long floats on the inside. If you do a pattern with long floats do not hook them up onto the needles as you knit as the mitten will be too tight when finished. Instead take off the machine and with another strand of yarn loosely catch down the floats. It is much better to use a small pattern repeat - preferably a 6 stitch pattern repeat or less. After 52 (56) rows are complete, transfer EOS across the row to the needle beside it and put empty needles out of work. Knit 2 rows and using a bodkin, take off on a strong cord (I use remnants of crochet cotton).

MAKE OTHER MITTEN TO MATCH - ADD 1 ROW on the lining before you reach the thumb opening - this will put your carriage on the left side and the thumb stitches to be done in waste yarn will be on the right. Remember on mittens that your pattern should either face out <> or face in >< but both should not face the same way >>.

Thumbs

Bring forward 26 (28) needles, carefully unpick the scrap yarn (one stitch at a time) from the stitches for the thumb and put on the needles (you could just cut down the centre of the two rows of scrap yarn but I found that I spent more time pulling out all the little bits and that it was quicker and easier to unpick one stitch from the scrap yarn at a time - besides you can use the little bits of scrap yarn on your next pair of mittens - they're just the right size). You will need to MAKE 2 stitches in the centre of each 12 (13) to fill the 26 (28) needles. Try to do this so as to avoid a hole. Match the tension (lining T7.2, mitten exterior T8.1) to whichever thumb you are doing and knit 30 (32) rows. Transfer EOS to needles next to it across the row and take empty needles out of work. Knit 1 row and take off on crochet cotton with a bodkin.

Complete other thumbs remembering to change the tension according to whether you are knitting the inside of the mitten or the outside.

TO MAKE UP

Thread crochet cotton through cast on rows of mittens. Do not tie in a knot. Take mittens to your sewing machine and sew as follows.

All thumbs - use yarn marker as guide. Tie crochet cotton in top of thumbs and cut off excess. Put right sides together and sew side seams of mittens matching patterns and ribbing. Tie crochet cotton at the top of the outside of the mitten (whilst right sides are still together) and cut off excess. Turn mitt right side out -tie crochet cotton at top of lining - use a bodkin to take through to the wrong side. Push lining into mitten and it's done.

Remember - Wrong side of work facing you

Thumb opening on right - RH mitten.

Thumb opening on left - LH mitten.

This pattern was first published in The Carriage Trade, Issue #50, March 1994

*Machine*	Made on a Studio 580 electronic but any standard machine with or without ribber can be used.
*Sizes*	For regular ladies hand (men's size in brackets)
*Yarn*	Originally made in Newry or Linwood by Spinrite Yarns - approximately 3 ozs of main colour (two strands used throughout) or any other 2/16 used double. Since this yarn is no longer available, 4 ply yarn will give approximately the same result. Small amounts of contrast for fairisle and small amounts of crochet cotton.
*Note*	If you are using an electronic together with a rib transfer carriage I would advise removing the N1 cam. The pattern will automatically default to centre and it'll be one less thing you'll have to think about.